Every Tennessee boy should stand on top of a real mountain at least once before he is grown. There is no better candidate than Mount LeConte in the Great Smoky Mountains. The Mount LeConte hike is a hard day, a long drive from Nashville, and worth every mile. Done right, it can become the kind of shared achievement a father and son talk about for the rest of their lives.
The mountain
According to its profile, Mount LeConte rises to 6,593 feet, the third highest peak in the national park and the highest peak entirely within Tennessee. Only Kuwohi, formerly called Clingmans Dome, and Mount Guyot stand taller, and both sit on the state line.
There are no roads to the top. Five trails lead to the summit, and near it stands LeConte Lodge, which began as a tent camp in 1925 and is supplied by helicopter and llama pack trains. It is the highest elevation guest lodge in the eastern United States, and the only way in is on foot. Staying overnight requires an advance reservation, and the lodge is generally open from mid-March through mid-November.
The Alum Cave route
Of the five trails, the Alum Cave Trail is the shortest and the most popular. The National Park Service lists it as 10 miles round trip, steep and rocky, with stairs and bridges. Along the way you pass through Arch Rock, a natural tunnel with stone steps; reach Alum Cave Bluffs, an 80 foot overhanging cliff about 2.3 miles up; and climb to the summit area, where Cliff Top and Myrtle Point offer the best views.
A few practical notes from the Park Service:
- A parking tag is required for any vehicle parked longer than 15 minutes anywhere in the national park. The Park Service sells tags by the day ($5), week ($15), or year ($40); the physical tag must be displayed, and most trailheads have no tag machines, so buy one before you go. The Alum Cave trailhead on Newfound Gap Road is notoriously crowded. Arrive very early or use the park’s shuttle options.
- Pets are not allowed on the trail.
- Winter brings ice. Microspikes are recommended in cold weather, and icicles can fall from the bluffs.
Is he ready?
Ten steep, rocky miles make a serious day. Before you attempt it, your son should have done several long day hikes closer to home. Our guides to day hikes near Nashville and backpacking near Nashville offer good preparation. A boy who has comfortably finished a long day at Beaman Park or an overnight at Savage Gulf is probably ready.
Signs he is ready:
- He can hike six or more miles with hills and still be in good spirits.
- He carries his own water and food without complaint.
- He knows how to pace himself on a climb.
- He wants to do it. That matters more than anything.
If he is not ready, go to Alum Cave Bluffs and turn around. That is a fine five mile hike on its own, and it sets up the summit for next year.
Making a day of it
- Stay close. Drive to the Smokies the day before and sleep nearby, so you can start at first light.
- Start early. An early start beats the crowds, the heat, and afternoon storms.
- Pack properly. Plenty of water, food, rain gear, a warm layer for the summit, a headlamp, a first aid kit, and a paper map.
- Set a turnaround time. Decide in advance when you will turn back no matter where you are. Teaching him to honor that decision is one of the most important lessons of the day.
Why it can be a rite of passage
A long, hard climb has everything a rite of passage needs: a real challenge, a threshold to cross, an older man to guide, and a changed view at the end. Our essay on rites of passage for boys describes how to give a moment like this its meaning.
On the summit, take a few minutes away from the other hikers. Tell him what you see in him. Tell him what you hope for him. Give him something to remember it by, whether a knife, a letter, or a book. Then walk down together. The mountain will do the rest.
If you want more reasons why hard physical challenges shape boys well, read our piece on why boys need difficult things.